HAMPI: THE BEAUTIFUL RUINS

What is so beautiful about a ruined state ? Well the significance of this very beautiful place called Hampi is one of its kind. Travelling solo was always on the top of my list but was waiting for a perfect chance to utilise. Back in November 2019 i finally decided to take my first ever Backpacking tour to Hampi. It was a 14 hour long journey, my ticket was not confirmed and somehow I managed to sit near the door. Due to November, winters were hitting hard but there was no option. Soon an old man came asking which station had passed as he wanted to get down at Pune. I requested him for his seat as he was getting down and that was a sigh of relief.  

Reached Hospet on 19th at 8:00pm , the weather was pleasant enough and I was excited to reach this land of ruins. The nearest bus station is just a km away from Hospet station, which drops you at Hampi City in just 15Rs. I decided to take an auto which cost me 200Rs and also I asked him whether he knows any good place for accommodation. The first thing which I came across was this Majestic and one of the Highest Temples in Hampi, the “Virupaksha Temple”. What a wonderful feeling it was to watch it glowing in that gloom. Booked a room nearby at 400bucks, got freshen up and enjoyed veg fried rice and chocolate shake at the famous “Mango Tree Cafe”. Back to the room , settled up with my luggage and jotted down the places I am going to visit on my first day of Hampi. 

The next morning I went out to look for a scooter on rent. Had some Spongy idlis with spicy coconut chutney and ofcourse a filter Coffee is must when you visit Karnataka. Started my journey visiting the “Kadalekalu Ganesha” temple followed by Krishna Temple. Exactly opposite there is an enormous market called “Krishna Bazaar” with a “Pushkarani” (Sacred water tanks used for storage). Spent some time clicking pictures and started heading towards the “Badvalinga temple” having a huge Shiva Linga. It is surrounded by rock walls from three sides with an open ceiling. Sunlight enters through this ceiling as if it’s worshipping lord shiva by its rays. Best time to visit this place is at 2:00pm if one needs to capture the beautiful puja performed by pandits at this place. Enjoying this scooty ride on such pleasant weather, I arrived at my next spot which was Lotus Mahal. It is a wonderful and excellent piece of architecture. Was amazed to know the fact that the temple’s top has privilege to save water which was used to keep it cold from inside, and that’s how air conditioning facilities were too ancient. Also visited the Elephant Stables where elephants were kept and trust me it’s immense. 

Next Stop was Hazarama Temple, beautiful carvings of lord Ram and many other gods depicting the ancient stories. Hazarama is a must visit place and one of its kind for sure. Pushkarini also known as Step-well where Maharaj’s used to bathe in their era adds to our attraction. Having names carved on the steps and are still very well maintained by the Archaeological department of India. Queen’s palace which is now almost ruined was a huge empire once. One can climb up and take a view around. Headed next to the Queen’s Bath Palace and the exceptionally carved architecture here left me stunned. The detailing are still up to the mark at most of  the pillars. It is hollow in the centre surrounded by few sculpture faces which has openings to provide water for bathing. After this had a delicious Hampi thali at “Pink mango Cafe” and started heading to the most awaited place for which everyone visits Hampi the”Vijay Vithala Temple. Famous for its Golden Stone Chariot which is present on the 50Rs note of Indian Currency. Surrounded by Majestic Temples from inside with the Stone Chariot at its centre, what a view it was. Like everyone else I was eager to capture a picture by holding a 50rs note at the Stone Chariot, but I realised I didn’t have one. Went asking if anyone could offer it for a moment but everyone was doing the same thing. Meanwhile I was exploring the place and a guy came asking me to click his picture at the Chariot, I asked him whether he had a 50rs note and he offered me. And that’s where the journey twist started. 

Was happy that I came across this fellow traveller and we decided to continue our next journey together on his bike. He was from Bangalore and had been to Hampi on his bike. It is so fun meeting people from different cities and how unexpectedly they become a part of your journey. Had our dinner together at Mango Tree cafe and the next morning we decided to go to the “Matanga Hill” famous for its Sunrise which was just half a km away from our stay. At 5am we started climbing stairs. It was dark and was quite difficult to judge the next step. We Enjoyed the sunrise, and got to see “ViruPaksha and Vijay Vithala Temple”from the top. Back to rooms, got freshened up, had some quick brunch and visited the “Virupaksha Temple ”, it was so pleasant getting to this place. “Laxmi” a female Elephant is worshipped here and it offers blessings to each individual through its trunk, one must need to offer 10 Rs in her trunk, she gives it to her caretaker and gives you back blessings. Make sure you visit this temple in early morning between 7:00 to 8:00am so that you can also watch Laxmi getting bathed at the Tungabhadra River outskirts inside the temple. My next plan was to visit the other side of Hampi which is Hippie Island. The fellow traveller “Balaji” had the same plan but before directly heading to that place we also explored “Tungabhadra Dam” which was not on my list but thanks to this buddy who made it possible.

It was his last day in Hampi and he eagerly wanted to visit “Anjanadri Hills” known as the Birth Place of Lord Hanuman. We started climbing at 2:00pm and it was damn hot, getting 575 steps up was a bit of a task. Within 35-40 min we reached at the top, took darshan and enjoyed the view of paddy fields and hampi ruins. Back down we had our last meal together,  this time some chinese food with some soothing Virgin Mojito which was much needed. Later he dropped me at my Shiva moon cafe guest house and continued back his journey. Took some rest and planned to visit SanapurLake and witness its beautiful Coracle ride in the evening. Took a bus to “SanapurLake”, by the time I reached it was quite dark. Came across a guest house named “Rambo Guest House” nearby this lake and asked whether they had dining facilities. Was going through the menu and was also enquiring about Sanapur lake. And just then the guy sitting exactly behind me asks me are you travelling solo ? Yes I said, and he was too. Met another loving buddy at Hampi and what could a solo traveller ever ask for. 

He asked me about my plans to explore Hippie Island, but I was about to leave for Mumbai the very next day. Can you join me as a pillion he added, and within seconds I agreed. At that time I understood we always meet someone for a reason and I realised why. Next morning, we first visited this gorgeous SanapurLake and got some amazing pictures. It was Tuesday, considered as Lord Laxmi Devi’s Day. We visited Laxmi mandir and also visited PampaSarovar which has a Pond facing Devi Laxmi and Lord Shiva temple. We were blessed enough to get Aarti just on our arrival, later we took darshan as there was Satyanarayan Puja organised by a couple. We took darshan and they offered us prasad puri bhaji , papad and some kheer as prasad. If there is something that a traveller should experience then these are the things. Next we headed to “Anjanadri Hills”and guess what it was my second time for this hike. This time it was post afternoon as we wanted to enjoy the sunset view from top. It was my last day at Hampi and we  decided to go to the famous “Laughing Buddha Cafe”, the road to this place is a bit challenging one as there are no lights except your scooter headlight. Reached this place and were badly craving to have paneer tikka and butter rotis. Some chocolate balls for the dessert were cherry on the cake. Next day morning he was going to explore the other part of Hampi which I had already done.

We crossed the river by boat and we greeted each other with a goodbye. My return journey was a bit tiring one as I had to take multiple transports in order to get back home. But after all everything pays off. You never know at what point of life you may meet people, but when they do they add colours to your life. Thankyou Balaji and Harsh for adding such colours to my first ever solo tour and making it a memorable one. They did not even ask me to pay the share for these two days which I roamed around with them, shows how humble they were. Last but not the least recently a friend of mine visited Hampi and this what she said after I suggested her a few golden points for Hampi. This is what helps me keep going.

NOTE:

• Hampi is totally safe for female solo travellers.
• I met with a small incident where the auto driver agreed for less charges from Hospet Junction to Hampi, but later he took his commission from the hotel charges. Stay safe from such frauds.
• Do not miss the beautiful gesture of “Laxmi” the female elephant in Virupaksha Temple getting bathed and also get blessings from her.
• If you are travelling solo and on a tight schedule there’s a stall exactly opposite of Virupaksha temple, where you can have idli, dosa, coffee.
• One can also rent cycle to explore Hampi which will cost you Rs.100
• Rambo Guest house is a beautiful stay at Hippie Island near Sanapurlake which is best for accommodation.

BUDGET BREAKDOWN :

• Mumbai to Hospet train: Rs447
• Hospet to Mumbai: Rs539

Day 1: 19th Nov 2019
Coffee Rs10
Water Rs20
Hospet to Hampi: 200Rs auto
Room Stay: Rs400
Dinner: Rs240

Day 2: 20th Nov 2019
Breakfast: Rs20
Bike rent + Petrol: Rs500
Entry fees for Lotus Mahal: Rs40 (can use same ticket for nearby sites)
Photography/Videography: Rs25
Lunch: Rs240
Dinner:Rs290
Stay: Rs400

Day 3: 21st Nov 2019
Lunch: Rs400
Bus fare to and fro: Rs14
Stay: Rs300
Dinner: Rs180

Day 4: 22nd Nov 2019
Coffee: Rs30
Dormitory: Rs300
Breakfast: Rs50
Coracle Ride: 200 (we just clicked pictures so 100 per person)
Tea: Rs30
Dinner: Rs370

Day 5: 23rd Nov 2019
Water: Rs70
Breakfast: Rs50
Lunch: Rs67
Hampi to Hospet: Rs200 by auto

Total: Rs 5,532 inclusive of travel, food, accommodation, entry fees, taxes.